The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Gardens

Every 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters hurry past collapsing, ivy-covered fencing panels as rain clouds gather.

It is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to 40 mature vines heavy with plump purplish grapes on a sprawling allotment sandwiched between a line of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of Bristol town centre.

"I've seen people concealing heroin or other items in the shrubbery," states the grower. "But you simply continue ... and continue caring for your vines."

The cameraman, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He has organized a informal group of cultivators who produce vintage from four discreet city grape gardens tucked away in private yards and allotments across Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to have an formal title so far, but the collective's WhatsApp group is called Grape Expectations.

City Vineyards Across the Globe

So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of the French capital's renowned artistic district area and over three thousand grapevines with views of and within Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them all over the world, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.

"Vineyards assist urban areas remain greener and more diverse. They protect open space from development by establishing long-term, yielding farming plots inside cities," says the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those produced in cities are a result of the soils the plants grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine embodies the beauty, community, environment and heritage of a city," adds the president.

Mystery Eastern European Variety

Returning to the city, the grower is in a race against time to gather the vines he grew from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the rain arrives, then the pigeons may seize their chance to attack again. "Here we have the mystery Polish grape," he says, as he removes damaged and mouldy berries from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous European varieties – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."

Collective Activities Across Bristol

The other members of the group are also taking advantage of bright periods between showers of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden overlooking Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of wine from France and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 vines. "I adore the aroma of these vines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a container of grapes resting on her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the car windows on vacation."

Grant, 52, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her household in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has previously endured three different owners," she says. "I really like the concept of environmental care – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can continue producing from this land."

Sloping Vineyards and Natural Winemaking

A short walk away, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the steep inclines of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has established over one hundred fifty plants situated on terraces in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting clusters of dusty purple dark berries from rows of plants arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on streaming service's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for more than ÂŁ7 a serving in the growing number of wine bars specialising in low-processing wines. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly create good, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of producing wine."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the natural microorganisms come off the surfaces into the liquid," says Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, pips and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to eliminate the natural cultures and then incorporate a commercially produced yeast."

Difficult Conditions and Creative Approaches

A few doors down active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to establish her grapevines, has gathered his friends to pick white wine varieties from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at the local university cultivated an interest in wine on annual sporting trips to France. However it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with a smile. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."

"My goal was creating Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers"

The temperamental local weather is not the sole problem encountered by grape cultivators. The gardener has had to erect a barrier on

Kayla Mccarthy
Kayla Mccarthy

Lena is a digital communication specialist with over a decade of experience in voice technology and media production, passionate about enhancing human interaction.